-
High-res →
Z Zegna AW12 collection, MFW
AW12 for Z Zegna is the debut collection by Paul Surridge. from what i see the collection is playing it safe. it’s pretty neutral (compare to the previous seasons) but that doesnt mean it’s bad, and in fact i’m quite liking it! the collection started with some emerald green and grey yet after 15 or so looks some crazy colours came in and it’s abit weird tbh. after the few jumpy colours there’s burgundy and more into grey and blueish. there were hardy any patterns at all, and only a bit of colour blocking was found in the collection, paul kept it really neat. this is also because of the collection look so modern on sharp cutting. like many other brands, coats this season goes bit long and baggy. it also comes in several fabrication, and gladly most of them arent too bulky, although some peacoat / jumper with exaggerated arms design look really familiar… but in a good way lol trousers are made in so many different colours and they’re all tailored perfectly. they’re quite high-waisted.. kind of a retro feature?
almost every single look came with gloves.. leather gloves always boost the chicness. it’s also good seeing some gorgeous travel bags briefcases and clutches. the shoes are very plain too - nothing really special about them although the sole are slight too thin for AW imo. all in all the whole collection is elegantly done yet modern and highly prêt-à-porter. i kinda liking the presentation of the show where the collection was bisected into two sides where the first half is the emerald green while the other half is like a reflection in blue, and placing the red looks in the middle to be the axis. -
High-res →
Charlie & Antoine @ Gucci AW12 show, MFW.
Gucci is keeping its elegance for AW12. it’s almost always true that gucci tries to perform an extremely modern and luxurious collection among all, and of the resource they have it hardly fail in this category. it’s always about the tailoring, the fabrication and the constant effort in smart-casual-to-formal edge ideas, since there’s no intermission for gucci men’s look to slack off. from the colour palette we see a lot of plum red, emerald green, brown and some dark blue. i really liked the fact that no matter where the collection heads on gucci still manage to keep up, and in particular the choice of colour this season. there are quite a lot of tapestry floral prints used in this collection and in contrast to dolce & gabbana, gucci interpreted much more submissively and didn’t exaggerate in a single bit, even though they can be found in suits and trousers, several different colours it’s still soothing. so you say there were also floral prints in SS12 everywhere but what makes gucci stands out a season later? it’s all about the pattern! it’s so much easier to favour when it’s not as strong as most of the presentation from last seasons, and the colouring on such patterns plays an imrpotant role too. they cleverly (and cautiously) balance the two bits until it sticks to a level it wont steal the thunder and makes you feel sick after a few glance! also here are again a handful amount of suits and they’re amazingly tailored as usual; and also joining the trend quite a few voluminous coats are seen, although it’s relatively stabler than many other houses. one of the reason could be the fabraication.. there were knits, silk, brocade and some fur too and the most abandon is velvet (gucci is pretty damn good on velvets). trousers are quite unique overall as they’re all ridiculously fit (model-wise, ha) and i guess i saw zips on the end of trousers from other pics so yeh, it’s all my fav. like last season the finale part gets me everytime and the sleeky velvet floral patterns in particular hit me bad. from the accessory department there are the same old timeless leather travel bags which cant miss. and at last shoes are back to the classic selection with brogues and plain leather shoes.
i love to see the little progression from SS12. it was stll intense, and the aristocratic impression remains its best. thumbs up for gucci. -
High-res →
Elvis Jankus & Gary Oldman @ Prada AW12 show, MFW
just as prada did a sort of unexplainable collection in SS12, they made a huge comeback in AW12. despite the cast of actors appeared in the show, the venue itself is pure glamorous. a conference-ish room with the enormous rectangular red carpet created an extremely grand atmosphere. the collection also clicks strongly with it. a strong 1920s military and nobly influenced style and the bgm of the show definitely created a dramatic tension. right from the beginning a series of formal dressing in black and grey came to the runway elegantly. the three-piece suits with topcoat enhanced with turtleneck underneath look extremely classy. there are doubled breasted coats and they look even more elegant. i really liked the collars and lapal on alot of the coats/ blazers and shirts, they’re slightly bigger than normal and but finely cut and i guess that’s more of a retro design? when diplomats from different departments comes down on the runway, towards the middle it become more of a upper class businessman bunch with variation on colours and patterns including plum and burgundy; in grey dots and some pinstripes. towards the third quarter the theme get slightly more casual from fabrication and cutting but the military impression is still very strong. we also see some sleeky coats and shorts. towards the end it twisted back to the formal wear where gary oldman closed the show with a stunning all-black outfit. the accessories collection focus on the round-shaped sunglasses and little badges which oriented in military and upper class phenomenon; especially the glasses. the shoes are lot more ordinary than the previous seasons (it’s really hard to beat the AW11 brogues i reckon) with a lot of two-tone shoes while more like a shiny vamp but a rubbery toe cap, and some classic oxfords with badges details on the toe cap and vamp - which isn’t exactly what i’m looking for..
this is probably the most acclaimed prada collection in years since it caught a significant amount of attention outside normal fashion community, but nonetheless this collection is a stunningly piece of work. now i wonder who’s going to be the face of prada for the AW12 ad.. ha.P.S. when i was watching the livestream i was wondering badly about something regarding to this influence and inspiration until elvis jankus walk out and i realise.. oh yeh this is really german
-
High-res →
Daiskue & Antoine @ Missoni AW12 show, MFW
missoni is very persist in their collections. you can often find similarities from each other seasons in their collections, and yet the progression are sort of clear. i actually quite like this season! A very missoni palette, the earthy, natural tone; a gorgeous combination of signature prints on almost every outfit and strong knitwear collection. in contrast from many other fashion house that throwing voluminous coats and jackets; missioni offers knits - a lot of them as usual. it’s all about layering here.. jumpers, cardigans, blazers and scarfs, and some long lighter coats too. the tone still makes you feel warm even by the absence of thick garments. if you think the patterns could bores you and unchic - it won’t. similarities doesnt limit the variety of the designs, especially with multi-layering and defined cutting from knits. there are also some fun details on garments utilising contrast colour-lining and patterns which cleared out the boredom from the somber looks. the floral pattern-ish collars details are really cute!! minimalist shoes enhanced the relax yet sedate impression but on the other hand there are some with similar signature patterns, which are both cool. at last there are more accessaries than last AW from missoni, not just hats. to me this is like an awesome progression from last season, keep up the great work missoni.
-
High-res →
Vivienne Westwood AW12 show, MFW
you probably remember this collection by the icy makeup. in this season VW is still unique at its own and i actually kind of liking it! ‘Frozen Planet’, is obviously about climate change. The style still obey the very westwood playful and unexpected rule. the mix and matching ideas are still strong on certain amount of looks. colour palette in contrast to AW11 however is fainter with quite alot of greyish and dark looks with occasion solid primary colours. plaids and horizontal blocks are the main patterns with a few extra signature prints and surprisingly there are few more looks are rarely ordinary. there are also a handful amount of suits looks in this collection and specifically those 2-tone plaid suits creating a symmetrical pattern is very eye-catching. there are again a lot of drop crotch and baggy trousers (except those suit trousers) which i’m not a huge fan, but the colour selection and patterns available even up the negative bits. the accessory section is very weak this collection and uninteresting.. except the shoes! wingtip brogues and boots available in so many colours are always nice. at last i think this collection is highly wearable comparing with many other seasons, and yet it’s still playful and charming.
-
High-res →
Tomek & ? @ Pringle of Scotland AW12 show, MFW, 15th Jan
pringle of scotland gives a strong impression this season. from the first glance the collection is quite different from many other fashion houses. the colour palette of the first half of this collection we see camel, orange and maroon colours which are quite rare and progressive among this season; on the second half of the collection it turns to a somber grey-toned theme. pullovers and oversized outwear are quite a blast in this collection. there is a slight military theme in the tailoring and design but interestingly (some of) the patterns and fabrication are more softer, although there are some leather trousers as well. the leather shoes are very nice, especially those with a blue dye on the toe bits (except the red ones, it’s abit too strong to me). leather gloves - again, is a must have for AW12. in conclusion PoS can do better, or maybe this just isn’t my favourite theme and palette in general.
-
High-res →
Clément & Victor @ Salvatore Ferragamo AW12 show, MFW, 15th Jan
for AW12 Ferragamo offer a classy and luxurious collection. the stage setting created a ice-cold feeling with deep blue runway and lighting. the whole collection focus on wonderfully tailored suits; smart indoor styling and extremely fitted outwear. the colour palette are on black/grey; plum and brown. fabrication is very clear: a soft selection in pullover; a massive collection of sleeky blazer suits (single button, double breasted et cetera) ; and a slightly tougher outwear (like leather and bouclé). we also see velvet tux in from ferragamo’s collection, and yes- it’s also in plum. ferragamo also provide a rich collection of luxurious accessories. leather gloves is a must, occasional plain scarfs in with colour-matching blazers are so easy to love too. classy leather clutches and briefcases is like a cherry on top to complete those elegant suits. last but not least shoes comes in with plain toes on laceless, derby or oxford (which i always prefer), simple and classy. all in all the collection is fairly minimalist, there are a few similar colour-mixing and everything look very precise, elegant and timeless, something you can still wear after years.
on clément is a grey overcoat with a black lapel-collar design, a salt and petter pullover and a plum shirt inside, a dark grey tailored trousers and a plum-ish colour plain toe shoes. gloves are amaziingly matching the trousers (and the whole look obvsiouly), clément also carrying a black clutch. classic AW look i’d say, and those glasses made him look more serious (ouch). i absolutely love nylander’s dark teal velvet blazer. a salt and petter pullover; grey trousers; dark purple oxfords (which i’d prefer a similar colour though) and a small black clutch. this look completed iwth a grey scarf and i think it’s beautiful.
-
High-res →
George & Benjamin @ Bottega Veneta AW12 show, MFW, 15th Jan
this season veneta continued to offer a collection of fun, chic and elegant at the same time. while comparing to the previous seasons, it gets even more playful than usual. right form the beginning a series of tailored suits comes down to the runway with a little twist on the blazers by putting colourblocks on them. i quite like them but they’re quite risky at the same time. hence a more casual bunch of looks came out with black palette and slim to regular jeans. they try to play it chic and cool but wouldn’t it be overly casual? upper clothing are more specific on the other hand, a somber and chic coats and jackets with almost non-repeating styles yet correlated series gives the classic bottega veneta impression; and towards the end a more modern and the playful element on looks are back on track again with some leather trousers and stitching detailed trousers came in although they are matched with black shirt and black ties which indicates a more smart casual and chic feel.. a several fabrication is used throughout the collection and clearly the somber colour palette makes the whole collection more wearable for everyone. no voluminous or heavy coats, only fitted overcoat at most. shoes also go minimalist. selection of animal skin or leather shoes are available; while this collection also offer heels for men! which is quite surprising to see from BV and they look pretty cool. it’s also rare that there are literally no bags shown in the show (since knowing how acclaimed BV bags are) and let’s face it, the collection is still solid without their signature leather bags! on the side note, the hairdo is absolutely amazing. look at anthon (okay and everyone too).
barnett wears a two toned blazer which the colour blocking is only slightly but i like how the silhouette makes his waist fitter. it’s also kind of formal edge where you almost can classify it as a formal suit lol. alternatively eidem’s look are from the last few looks and the upper coat is releatively calm, with only the lapel playing a little colour blocking with the light leather coat, i really liked it. the trousers on the other hand is rather interesting. it’s more of a elastic material and there are some cross stitching details on the legs part. it lighten things up quite smoothly and boosted the whole look to a chicer impression. at last can we also appreciate how amazing ben’s hair looked here?
-
High-res →
Peter & Benjamin @ Neil Barrett AW12 show, MFW, 14th Jan
this is a very different neil barrett from its usual designs and collections. there are very little military elements here, the collection is aiming for a ore comfort and diverse direction. colour palette expands from monochromic including camel and burgundy although a large amount are still in black/white/grey tune. this collection focused on the coat in particular. there are quite a lot of overcoats which comes in different materials; parkas (some aren’t that bad); double breasted overcoat and some fitted jackets. it’s a huge production and to be honest it’s abit confusing cuz they’re so different from each other, even though it’s certain that barrett pulled in a lot of softer fabrics to replace the tough and strong looks they used to do. all of the trousers are, on the other hand, incredibly fitted, slightly flooded and all in grey. i quite like the uniqueness. in terms of accessories there are only bags, which isn’t anything special here. finally shoes is one of the key component i look into neil barrett. this time they’re offering tough looking workman boots. though there are some really nice colours going on, the extra piece that stitched on top of the shoes though - they barely covered half of the lace… they look like mudflap to me i don’t get it. to conclude this colleciton is a slight twist from what i know of neil barrett and i’d say i liked the previous collections bit more.
but then i gotta pick my favourites yay. on peter is a mixing of burgundy and navy blue palette. the layering is nice with the heavy dark blue overcoat; midnight blue blazer and the burgundy pullover inside. i’m not sure if the neck detail is attached to the pullover but i liked it either way cuz of the colouring. this is one of my favourite coat in the collection (sue me i prefer the classic coats) and how it look incredibly nice with the slim trousers. the burgundy boots matching the pullover is great. on benjamin is a classic black and white outfit. this parka coat is even more voluminous than the one on peter, and i quite like the leather sleeves on it. the layering (heavy overcoat > blazer > hoodie > white shirt) is quite crazy but in a good way. must be very warm lol… black zipped tight trousers are slightly too flooded though (or i’m confused with them pleating it) and the leather derby which covered most of the collection. the chemistry between tough and elegant is beautiful on this look.
-
High-res →
Fabian & Johannes @ John Varvatos AW12 show, MFW, 14th Jan
John Varvatos’ ‘rock star’ collection continues to its success. in this collection it’s more about the relaxing impression, which doesn’t sound very rock, but with a twist and the strong varvatos element inserted this collection walking on the boundary between a rocker and more casual style. first of all the colour palette of this collection swinging between black and mostly earth tones plus a little bit of white/creamy colour. interestingly quite a lot of clothings gives a rusty and tough impression (rockstar!); on the other hand, there are some knitwear and cotton jackets which gives a less tough feeling. there are a few fur lapel coats and i don’t really feel it blending with the rest of the collection well. towards the end there are a few looks with some slightly more formal blazers with ties and it really gives the whole collection a boost in smart casual styling. in terms of trousers most of the looks are offering tailored and slightly more relaxing designs but not baggy at all.. it’s more about fitting and relaxing at the same time like regularly tight i’d say. bags choices aren’t alot, most of them travel bags in different sizes which are commonly seen everywhere. boots are a major phenomenon of john varvatos, and this season it’s more about short leather boots with not-so-many details, such as a single metal strap or even plain, very chic. hats also appeared elsewhere and it’s abit turn off to me since they cheapen everything here and makes the outfit more like some cheeky thieves lol. also those sunglasses.. i’m clueless about them.
on fabian is a coffee brown pullover which i guess is dyed to a slight rusting colour. a pair of steely grey colour trousers gives a boost to the hard look. i also like the belt it’s like linking the top and bottom bit. plum gloves, well kinda badass lol. i loves the boots so much and sadly i’ll never pull them off. and of course who doesnt like fabian’s hair?? johannes on the right wears a dark grey 3 pieces suits; a messy collar arrangement; a matching tie (but a loose knot); and a extra lengthen black shirt. it look so chic! the shoes - i think is kinda animal hair but it’s not. is it just the surface coating? either way it still looks really nice
something's happening outside
Ian. Kidult. Native Hong Kong-er in London. This blog mostly contains art & design; some random photographs; homme fashion and some bullshits from myself. op.
Custom Search
